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Escaping the Cornavirus from Austria

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Tue, Mar 17, 2020 @ 05:44 PM

We were on a skiing vacation the week before the Coronavirus popped, and this is the story of getting home to deal with it here.

With the closure of America to foreigners on Wednesday (Thursday morning for us), things began to change rapidly. We spent Friday finalizing travel plans (not skiing), and took our ski bus - a 10 minute shuttle - to St Anton to collect our skis and boots.

(The image below on the right is from a guide friends and I have used in that region in the past:)

Note from Alessio - CoronavirusThe 3:00, 3:15, and 3:30 shuttles back to Pettneu (the village we were staying in) didn’t arrive on time; something was different. (When things work, the Arlberg / Tirol shuttle services are predictable and efficient.) Among the growing bus crowd, we spoke with a Dutch family from our hotel who had just learned the border between Arlberg and Tirol - between St Anton and Pettneu - was being controlled by police. We could all be stuck 5 miles from our hotel! This was getting real. (Good thing we were not skiing).

Finally a different bus headed to Pettneu arrived and we pushed our way on. Jammed with people. The ten minute ride took about a half hour, passing through the police security control, weirdly, as they interrogated cars trying to leave the area, but let our local bus pass.
Once at the hotel, I went to an ATM for cash and a nearby market for non-perishable food. On returning to the hotel, Peter came out with his luggage: the St Anton area was imposing a quarantine; a taxi would arrive in five minutes. Pack and checkout now.

Our hotel owner advised going 20 miles east to Landech, a stop before St Anton, to catch the train to Zurich immediately, as the Swiss border would close at midnight. In Landech we learned, at the ticket machine, that the Swiss had already shut the border, so we pivoted further east to Innsbrueck, the capital of the Tirol region (where we were), which had an airport; the train would leave in five minutes.

On the train we learned that flights out of Innsbrueck would take over 24 hours to get home, so we chose to head immediately to Munich (Germany), as the Austrian - German border had not yet closed, and a train left in less than a half hour. On the train we discovered that United had a flight to Boston leaving at 9:50 the next morning so we had a solid solution.

After another train change - and by the way, while humping ski equipment along with vacation winter clothes, in a pandemic panic - we arrived at Munich airport at about 10PM. Multiple efforts to secure seats online for the United flight to Boston failed (at United’s end), and the Lufthansa counter (all others were closed) told us to arrive early in the morning when the United desk opened.
After a fitful sleep at the airport hotel, we learned - at the same Lufthansa desk as the night before - there was no United desk - that the United flight was full. Our only option was to get to Lisbon, where we had a flight (the original Zurich connection) scheduled for Sunday morning.

We are now through security in Munich, with an airbnb apartment waiting for us in Lisbon. If flights still leave Lisbon to Boston - our original final leg, we will be home as scheduled. But stay tuned. (EDIT - beautiful afternoon / evening in Lisbon, home as originally scheduled)

Take-aways: when rules change without notice, people panic. When liberties are restricted without notice, people react. Large airports provide better options. Some decisions need to be made with partial information, or questionable information; as always, good reliable information is king.  Two canisters of disinfectant wipes were adequate for wiping down every new surface: baggage carts, airport, train, taxi and bus seats, luggage, regularly...

Also, when traveling, always check for wallet, passport and phone before moving from anywhere. The rest is replaceable.

Last thing: for extra spice, do all this during a worldwide pandemic.


Final EDIT: We are home. 14 day (minimum) self-quarantine, working from home, physical office closed to public, we've gone virtual.

Tags: coronavirus, travel risk

Our experience in Lima Peru

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Tue, Jul 02, 2019 @ 11:55 AM

Lima Peru

On our first trip to South America we visited both the stark and beautiful Andes, as well as a few days in a Peru’s capital, Lima.

As American tourists, we stuck to the safest and cleanest sections in the city, and stayed in the section known as Barranco.   Barranco and Miraflores are two of the three or four districts along the coast known to be safe and clean, and there was plenty to do there for several days.

Lima Peru Biking - Gordon Atlantic Travel

One of our first activities was a bicycle tour of coastal parks and sites. What jumped out for all of us was the dedication to bike lanes through parks and along streets.   In Boston, riding a bike can be a contact sport.  In Lima, the car traffic and bike traffic seemed to integrate safely and efficiently.   It was a great way to see a large section of coastal Lima with its beautiful parks and boulevards.


Lima comes right out of the Pacific Ocean, and the beaches along the coast are a mix of sandy and rocky with several sections producing good surf.   

Surfing in Lima Peru - Gordon Atlantic Travel

We joined Pucana Surf one morning, in spite of their website that says they speak no English. They didn’t speak much English but enough to outfit us with a good selection of wetsuits, then get us into the water, and safely up on our boards on 1 meter, but plentiful waves.  Check out the skyline on the coastline in this picture; we're surfing right off the City of Lima!

The food in Lima was spectacular, and lunch was particularly inexpensive.   I ordered ceviche for lunch each day when we were in Lima. Ceviche is a fish dish that uses lime juice and hot peppers to cook the meat.  Light garnishes of lettuce, corn, and potato slices made for beautiful presentations as well.  This is a specialty of Lima which our guide at Machu Picchu strongly suggested we try, and we did, and we all enjoyed it..  Ceviche in Lima Peru - Gordon Atlantic Travel


As potatoes are indigenous to Peru, there are some 200 versions of potatoes growing today. French fries, Papas Fritas in Spanish, can be served with many dishes. These are not McDonald’s string french fries; they are more like steak fries; you might get a half a dozen papas fritas out of one potato.  Ketchup is rarely served.

The most popular local drink is the Pisco sour. Pisco's origin came from Spanish restriction of wine cultivation and production in Peru. The Spanish overlords wanted locals to buy Spanish
wine. But Peruvians created their own liqueur from grapes, some from Madera or Italian grapes, the liqueur now known as Pisco.  Mixed with lime juice, egg whites and plenty of ice, it is a delicious, tart, and cold drink. It was perfect for watching the sun set over the Pacific. 

The people we met in Peru in general, and in Lima in particular, always seemed pleasant and eager to help us enjoy our stay.  Even language differences were never met with contempt, but rather, with mutual efforts to understand.  

One inescapable observation was the homogeneity of the local people.  Some 40% of Peruvians are indigenous people, with similar size (shorter than most Americans), complexion and facial features.  In the United States we are so used to a broad variety of people, seeing so many people with such similar features was noteworthy and memorable. 

Lighthouse Lima Peru - Gordon Atlantic Travel

As is the case with many urban centers around the developing world, Lima has sections that are reflective of first world luxury and development, as well as third world poverty, inequality, pollution, and crime.   Of Lima’s 45 districts, 3 or 4 are clean and safe, while the other roughly 40 districts are characterized by Third World conditions including lack of clean water, lead-laden air pollution from old cars, and limited economic opportunity.   Crime there however, is evidently limited to petty theft; we heard that violent crime is uncommon.  Civil strife from two decades ago was evident nowhere.

For me personally, this trip was my first to a Spanish speaking country, so I was nervous with the language uncertainty.  Before our trip I downloaded a tourist’s app to get a basic grasp for directions, food, transactions and greetings: just enough to get by.   While Peruvian hospitality - particularly in tourist heavy locations - might have been more than we can expect from other destinations, having eased into enough Spanish to get around has given us the confidence to explore more of South America - and Spain - in our future. 

This was a great trip, and Lima is a beautiful place to explore. 

Tags: travel, biking, Gordon Atlantic Insurance, Peru, Lima Peru, surfing

Peru and Machu Picchu

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Thu, Jun 27, 2019 @ 12:45 PM

When our niece and nephew invited us to join them in Peru. We thought, Peru? Hmmm. Sure. Isn’t Machu Picchu down there?   Machu Picchu was indeed our destination for the first half of our trip, and the subject of this blog post!

Back before the Incas 

Hike through Alpen grass in Peru

Most of us remember from elementary school social studies, Pizarro’s escapades in the 16th century high into the Andes, seeking the same treasure that Cortez had taken from the Aztecs.  Images of steep mountain terraces and conquistadors color my memories.  I had assumed the Incas had been there for centuries.  

Not quite. The Inca civilization was actually only one hundred years old when Pizarro arrived, but they didn’t appear out of nowhere.  The Incas were a small tribe centered in the valley of Cusco which began a rapid expansion phase in about 1438.   One element establishing their reign was the construction of over 42,000 miles of footpaths; runners could transmit information from one end of the empire to another in a matter of days.  Incan kings extracted taxes not in the western tradition of demanding money or crops, but rather requiring 3 months of labor each year; thus were these roads and terraces built.  Today Incas remain; in the mountains many locals still speak Quechua, the native language of the Incas. 


We landed in Lima, Peru’s capital, and immediately jumped on a flight to Cusco, the traditional Incan capital, an hour or two south, and 11,000 feet higher (3,400 m).  With a population close to a half million people, it’s one of the highest major urban centers in the world.  If you’re going to Machu Picchu, you’ll come through Cusco.   But we didn't stay long.  The same afternoon, we headed to Urubamba, a smaller town close to Machu Picchu, at an elevation of around 8,000’ (2500m).  


Cusco Pentecost festival church

Urubamba is settled into a tight valley surrounded by the steep, massive peaks of the Andes. The Urubamba River meanders through town, and a railroad line follows the river bed, ferrying tourists from Cusco through Urumbamba and on to Aguas Calientes, a small town at the base of Machu Picchu. 

Wandering around the markets and small back streets of Urumbamba, we came across a Pentecostal fest in the town square, with band and dancing competitions and a genuine hometown feel. We also spent a morning riding horses along the river, exploring pre-Incan burial caves and marveling at the 12 month growing season.  It would have been easy to have spent more time taking in Urumbamba, but we only had only a week in Peru, and Machu Picchu beckoned.

Climbing into Machu Picchu

There are several ways into Machu Picchu:  You can hike for four or five days with local outfitters; you can day hike roughly ten miles and about a thousand meters (3,000') of elevation gain; or you can take the train from Cusco (or from Urubamba), then a bus right up switchback roads to Machu Picchu.  We chose the day hike.  Bridge over Urumbamba

The day hike into Machu Picchu began when the tourist train (that for many began in Cusco 3 or 4 hours earlier) stops on the Urubamba River at a small footbridge.  The span wasn’t like in the movies over a great yawning chasm, but the bridge construction was similar: wood boards over a rope suspension bridge above fast water.  Once across the river, we hiked as we would in New Hampshire or Vermont, slow and steady rise carrying only day packs with a lunch provided by our outfitter.  Llama Paths was our outfitter, based in Cusco, and we all liked them.  They were professional and courteous for our orientation in Cusco;  Juan Joe (JJ), our guide, kept us moving, and encouraged water and snack breaks periodically.  He kept us engaged with his knowledge of Incan and Peruvian culture and history.  He occasionally spoke Quechua with the porters who'd pass us from time to time.

Since there were eight of us spanning in age five decades (30’s to 70’s), we traveled at an easy but steady pace.  An early highlight was emerging from the woods into alpine pasture and seeing the Urubamba River below. It gave us gave us a sense of accomplishment after our climb, and the open views to higher alpine landscapes were breathtaking.   Soon we could see Chachabamba, a great terraced site, an emerald green amphitheater across a drainage from us, our next destination.  While it appeared close, the trail kept elevation around the drainage, so it took longer to reach Chachabamba than we expected.  The quality of engineering and stone workmanship was evident throughout the terraces, still structurally sound after 500 years.

Llama sitting on stonework in Peru


Just past Chachabamba, we broke for lunch, which Llama Path had prepared for us: chicken in quinoa salad, an avocado that was perfectly ripe, and apple and energy bar. It was all healthy and delicious.

With lighter packs, rested bones and a well-worn trail without much more elevation gain, we soon entered the “Sun Gate”, a saddle on a ridge where the sun rises on summer solstice (December 22) from the perspective of the main altar rock at Machu Picchu.  So the magnificence and beauty of Machu Picchu was below us from the Sun Gate, replete with its own stone terraces and pillar work.  We hung out there for a little while to take pictures (see below) and just take it all in. The walk down to Machu Picchu was quick, and with it in our sights the whole time, its vastness and splendor became more evident with every step.  Plus, being mid-to-late afternoon, all the tourists were gone.  While there were a few other people still exploring the site, we more or less had the place to ourselves.  

Relaxing in Machu Picchu, Peru

There is a new town below Machu Picchu named Agua Calientes, straddling the banks of a river feeding the Urubamba.  We headed there for dinner and a hotel bed. The town was built to accommodate tourists to Machu Picchu, so is not old, though it was built to look like an old quaint mountain town.  There is a great market where local people sell their sweaters, paintings, zamponis (a local wind instrument made of 13+ bamboo tubes) and other wares. Restaurants and gift shops line the streets, and Peruvian and Incan memorabilia are for sale in Agua Calientes.

Wayna Picchu

We came back up to Machu Picchu on the bus, early, before 7AM, when bus transfers for the public begin.  Because we had hiked in and secured a permit for the day’s climb, the early arrival, before the crowds was a blessing. This is one of the benefits of seeing a place like Machu Pichu with a good outfitter: they have the inside track to help guests see and experience the beauty without the inevitable crowds.  That morning JJ gave us the historical tour of the main sites in Machu Picchu early, and we learned about the engineering (drainage was everything), the history of discovery in the late 19th century, and more about building and farming.  

Machu Picchu - Wayna Picchu Looms

After the tour, we left JJ and ascended Wayna Picchu on our own.   Wayna Picchu is the conical-haystack looking mountain adjacent to Machu Picchu, easily ascended from the Machu Picchu Park, but separately controlled - you need a pass.  200 Passes are available for a 7AM ascent, and another at 10AM.  The trail is steep and narrow, so a climber limit is necessary.  The hike was not technical, but steep pretty much the whole way.  Cables and rails helped provide stability.  I strongly recommended this climb for anyone who can climb a NH 4000 footer.  The views back down upon Machu are spectacular and the sense of accomplishment is hard to dismiss.

View from the top of Wayna Picchu back to Machu Picchu

Once down from this peak, we took the tourist train back to Cusco for a small town stay, enjoying the pentecostal festival, and taking in some of the local culture.  The day hike across the Sun Gate, and the hike up onto Wayna Pichu mad e a good trip to a beautiful place even better.

A final comment on language: Even with a limited knowledge of Spanish that i picked up on the flight, we were able easily to eat, get around, buy sweaters and other memorabilia, and enjoy the scenes.  The people were universally polite, friendly and accommodating.   While many vendors and wait staff speak a little English, communicating with those who don't is not impossible.  A smile and a 'we may be surprised but who cares' attitude is often enough to make it all worthwhile. 

Following Cusco, we headed to Lima for a few days in Peru’s capital.  For that wholly different experience,, check out my next travel blog.  This unexpected trip became a fun adventure.


Tags: Gordon Atlantic Insurance, Machu Picchu, Travel Insurance, Peru, Wyana Picchu

Jerusalem and Israel

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Sun, Apr 14, 2019 @ 07:16 PM

Jerusalem is a city of opposites and extremes, of curiosity and revelation, with breadth and depth that is unequalled in the world.  It is the birthplace of monotheism. The thoughts that follow include new understanding and personal insight from exposure to new facts, places and ideas.   This exposure turned a good vacation into a great life experience.

The parallelisms evident through the Judaism, Christianity, and Islam deserve a brief overview for perspective, offering insight into these religions that even secularists might appreciate.

Adam to Abraham to Jesus to Mohammed

Jerusalem is a destination for religious reasons for many people, so it's logical to begin here.   All three religions, Judaism, Christianity, and Islam believe that Adam was the first man, and Eve his wife.  They ate forbidden fruit from the Garden of Eden, man’s first sin, and were set off out of the Garden of Eden into the world by God.  Later, Abraham, a righteous man and father of all three religions, was tested by God (was Abraham testing God?), when God asked him to sacrifice his son Isaac to show his fealty to God.  Abraham brought Isaac to the altar on Mount Moriah, the height of the land in Jerusalem, today held within the Temple Mount, before God stopped him, presenting instead a ram, symbolizing God’s wish never to condone humans sacrificing humans.  We are all created in God’s image. Life is precious: Thou Shalt not Kill.

Consider this backdrop as we visited the Western Wall my second time.  (The first visit has its own story). I paused nearby to read the inscription of the ‘Binding of Isaac’., where the father prepares to kill his first son.  After donning a yarmulke I approached the wall, and was overcome by emotion, reminded from my Christian heritage that God sacrificed to mankind his only son, that we may be forgiven our sins.  If in the early Jewish religion sacrificing a sheep was better than a dove, a cow better than a sheep; what does sacrificing your only Son for the benefit of mankind convey? This is a powerful place for people of faith, and it struck me unexpectedly deeply.

Western Wall

Shalom, Salaam, Peace.

Shalom is a Jewish greeting, Salaam Arabic, both words meaning Peace.  In the Arab quarter, ‘Salaam’ or a variation (as-salaam 'alaykum, or ahlan wa sahlan) is a greeting that works… usually.  When challenged by a young shopkeeper with an edge, ‘What is Salaam?’, Peace, I replied. ‘What is Peace? Do we have peace?’, I was reminded of the plight of Palestinain cab drivers, indigenous Isreali Arabs, and other Muslims we met.  I replied, ‘God willing, some day there will be Peace’, which defused the exchange, but reminded us of the undercurrents of a land where many religions converge, and convergence is not always peaceful.

The Western Wall, where only 50% shows above ground.  There are another 17 courses below ground.

Breadth and Depth

The breadth and depth of religions (including cultural manifestations) is everywhere.  Within the Jewish community, for example, the ultra-orthodox play an over-sized role as kingmakers in Israeli politics. While they represent a relatively small minority, they coalition with Likud, extracting goodies: e.g. no busses on Shabat (sabbath), and continuation of a 1948 law allowing Yeshiva (students of the Torah) to study - at taxpayer expense - in some cases indefinitely.    We experienced schisms evident on election day - Tuesday - as Bibi Netanyahu continued on as Prime Minister for his sixth term.  Secularists are unhappy with the absence of busses on Saturdays and with their paychecks supporting lifetime students. Between these bookends on simple religious / political spectra are many Jews, from literally all around the world, on multiple other spectra.

Below are pictures of a Bedouin village and an Israeli Settlement, both in the West Bank.Bedouin villageSettlement


Christianity’s breadth is on display at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  This is the site of Golgotha Hill where Christ was crucified, as well as the site of his burial chamber.  (As an aside, a floor below Golgotha, evident through glass is the same rock with red streaks: where - according to legend - Jesus’ blood permeated the rock, reaching Adam’s skull, symbolizing Christ’s blood freeing Adam from original sin).  Heady stuff.Church of Holy Sepulcher

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is too holy for one denomination, so it is managed by six Christian denominations: Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Roman Catholic, Coptic, Ethiopian, and Syriac Orthodox.  The effectiveness of this management by committee is evident in a ladder set upon a balcony above the main entrance, and unmoved since 1757, a testament to the Status Quo rule: that no order may change or rearrange anything without approval of the other five represented denominations.  

Note the ladder below the middle window at Church of the Holy Sepulcher

An alternative ‘Golgotha’ - the Place of the Skull - with its own burial chamber nearby, ‘discovered’ by Charles Gordon (of Sudanese fame) outside the walls in the late 19th century, appeals today to Evangelical Protestants.


Islamic breadth in Israel was not as evident with our limited exposure, but one metric is civic engagement: citizenship for resident Arabs with voting rights and economic opportunity are a long way from Palestinians on the West Bank (aka - the occupied territories).  Here prominent signs at crossroads entering ‘Zone A’ warn Israelis that entering may cost them their lives, and where taxes (collected by Israel) are transferred for disbursement to the Palestinian Authority where leadership is less responsive: taxation without representation.  Arab engagement with the political process may vary, but one unifying force is recognition that political leaders don’t care much about them. The disappointment and frustration is evident, and manifestly understandable.

Roads within the Palestinian Authority allow for travel, but Israelis may not stop or enter.

Sign in zone A

The most unifying force in our experience was economic, revealing today’s BDS movement (Boycott, Divestment, Sanctions) promoted by a Palestinian from Qatar) for its purely political and provocative ends.





A Land of Extremes

We met a group of three young Palestinians at the Dead Sea.  It’s a resort. You can float in the Sea, enjoy a mud bath, ride a camel for a few shekels, have a meal or a drink, and hang out by the pool.  These three young men explained that they live in a small village, and left their wives at home with their families, explaining that they didn’t want to expose them to the women in swimsuits, the drinking, overt capitalism (skin care products, ladies?), and other western / modern influence at the resort.  

Juxtapose this to our day in Jaffa / Tel Aviv, with beautiful young men and women on the beach and a bar every few hundred meters.  The latter may seem normal, but it’d’ve been as extreme to these rural Palestinian men as their sheltering their wives from a resort seems to us.

Dead Sea camel





Tel Aviv is also the recipient of good healthy rainfall out of the Eastern Med.  The land is lush (think Jaffa oranges) with a European feel. As the land rises 2,500 feet to Jerusalem, most moisture is squeezed out of the clouds, terminating at Jerusalem.  Immediately to the east is the Judean Desert (more about John the Baptist and Jesus before we are done), a land dominated by the Dead Sea and bordered with Jordan River, receiving less than 10 cm water annually.

The Jordan River baptismal site and the Dead Sea resort were highlights, for different reasons, but both offered simple pleasures, and timely breaks from information overload.  Below are the Jordan River (baptismal site), and checking email while floating in the (30% salinity) Dead Sea.

Jordan river

Dead Sea float

War and Peace

In 1967, several Arab nations staged a surprise military assault on Israel in what would become known as the Six Days War.  Having secured their borders (as it turned out, for only anther six years, until 1973), Israel began digging.  Many of the ancient sites we visited, Qumran (Dead Sea scrolls), Herodium, and the City of David, had been lost to time until recently. But since Jews had been expelled from Israel since the second rebellion (against Rome) in about 165 CE, there was a sense that showing Judean history can better secure their place today. Excavating and exposing the Western Wall (of the Temple, which Romans destroyed) was one initiative that drew Islamic ire since most Muslims believe that Muhammad ascended to heaven from the very spot where Abraham bound Isaac, where the Temple itself stood, and its Western Wall stands today.

Today the three religions cohabitate the Old City’s respective quarters mostly peacefully.  But agitators agitate. The entrance to the Temple Mount (Muslim controlled) is at the Western Wall.  Shortly before we ascended, we heard a group of young men boldly singing Zionist songs as they approached this Islamic holy place.  Israeli security or Islamic proctors managed to silence them, but offence and escalation is never further than the next street corner.


War and Death… long ago

New understanding from archaeological sites is often framed by “First Temple”, ‘Second Temple’, and first and second rebellions; we knew nothing about these on our arrival.  But they frame some core ideas today, and are worth summarizing. The First Temple was built by Soloman in about the 10th century BCE. That’s three thousand years ago.  Early Jews worshiped there, until the Babylonians (led by Nebuchadnezzar) conquered Jerusalem and destroyed the Temple.  Babylon expelled the Jews about 500 years later, so they returned to Jerusalem to build the Second Temple.  Another 500 years later, King Herod added magnificence to the building (We climbed the stairs that Jesus climbed to enter the Temple to flip the tables of the money changers.).  In about 66 CE, the first revolt against the Romans occurred, with a predictably forceful result.  AbMasada to Roman siege campout 60 years later (132 CE) the bar Kokba revolt resulted in the most forceful consequence.  Fighters held out in two of our visited sites: Herodium and Masada, two of Herod’s palaces. But the Romans hunted down and killed the last Jew to prevent another insurrection, Jewish slaves could be bought for less cost than a half day’s horse’s ration. The Jews would not repopulate the area for nearly 2000 years.  

One of the last holdouts was Masada, Herod’s palace located on top of a mountaintop near the Dead Sea (which we visited).  Its cisterns held water and stores were adequate. After an 8-month siege, the Roman army breached the northern gate. That night, 960 soldiers committed mass suicide, preferring to die on their own terms to being slaughtered - or sold into slavery - by Romans.

The area’s climate has preserved many elements of those days including the siege line and eighth encampments, and its remote location preserved its outline well.  

Herodium was another Herod palace and burial site we visited, near East Jerusalem, an incredibly restored site since its recent excavation.  

Another religious parallel

Moses led the Israelis out of Egypt, but he never led them out of the Jordanian desert (today’s trans-Jordan).  That job was left to Joshua, who led the Israelite's out of the desert, across the Jordan River, to the land of milk and honey: Israel.  ‘Jeshua’ is the Aramaic name for Joshua, and the name of the prophet who led Gentiles out of their wilderness after his baptism in the Jordan: We call him Jesus.

There are multiple other parallels between the Old Testament (Judaism’s bible) and New Testament (Christian Bible), but standing on the banks of the Jordan River, with the Jordanian desert to the east and Jerusalem to the west, the Joshua - Jeshua connection was palpable.


Chuck and Lynna

Our hosts were gracious, fun, and beyond interesting.  They are friends from home who had an unexpected free bedroom in their apartment for their month-long trip to Jerusalem.  Chuck is not a religious person, but a serious scholar of history and humanity. Lynna is Jewish, non-practicing, and equally interesting and engaging.  Not only were they gracious hosts and fun to be around, they introduced us to David Zwebner, our outstanding tour guide for our first full day.

DavidDavid Mt of Olives

David’s family is six generations in Jerusalem, his great-grandfather arriving in the mid-19th century and his grandchildren living nearby.  David has made his way in life doing other interesting things (with a personal letter from Donald Trump to show for one of his interests), and does tour guides as a personal love.  Monday was a firehose of information, beginning on the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane, throughout the Old City with all its richness and variations, concluding at the U.S. Embassy.  He led me respectfully to the Western Wall, discussed the confluence of religion and history with ease, and surprised us with his skill for avoiding crowds, while seeing Jerusalem’s most important sites.  My favorite line from David was his birthday greeting: ‘On this day, God decided the world could not manage without you.’


Chuck and Lynna also arranged for Haim Karel to guide us east, out of Jerusalem:  to Masada, En Gedi and the Dead Sea one day, and Herodium, Qumran (Dead Sea Scrolls), the Inn of the Masada viewGood Samaritan, the River Jordan and the Dead Sea (resort) on a second day.  A valid metric, happened on two separate times and in two separate locations. While passing other larger groups, the tour-guides stopped to interrupt their own tours to remark, ‘Folks, meet Haim.  Haim was my teacher. He is the best! You guys (meaning the four of us) are so lucky!’ They were right. Haim was as passionate about learning (sporting multiple languages and multiple degrees) as anyone I’ve known; entertaining, energetic, and generous with his tea and his container of dates and nuts.   

A people person, he convinced an architectural archaeologist student working at Herodium to give us a lecture on the top Herodiumelements of Herod the Great’s impressive palace and burial site, just by befriending him.  Assaf’s best line, ‘A good visit is a done visit, so I have to get back to work.’

Final thoughts

Jerusalem is rich and deep, not only on a religious basis, but ethnically and culturally as well.  It sits at one end of the fertile crescent (Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilization, at the other) and people have been trading and passing through for millennia.  Today Israel is playing a long game, trading increasingly with its closest neighbors Egypt and Jordan, inviting new Jewish citizens from around the world, while still requiring that all youth serve in the military or comparable defensive capacity:  They live in a tough neighborhood where absence of war appears enough to get re-elected. Most people deeply want peace. May it be so.

We barely scratched the surface, but we scratched a lot and found a wonderful place. May peace prevail.   

Tags: travel

How to stay warm in cold weather

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Mon, Jan 01, 2018 @ 08:14 AM

When the cold weather comes in hard, it's safer to stay inside and let it pass. But for those who want to experience the outdoors as it truly is, here are a few tips that can make it beyond tolerable, and quite fulfilling.

First of all, forget about fashion. We have one goal here: be comfortable as Mother Nature relentlessly tries to steal your heat.

Take a tip from the wild animals out there: think calorie count. Am I burning more than I'm consuming? When the cold weather first came in, mammals stayed sheltered to preserve their energy. But as soon as temps rose from negative and single digits into double digits, the need for calorie replenishment grew, and deer began browsing, squirrels began hitting the bird feeders again. So don't over-exert, but don't just sit still either. Moderate continual movement is good.

Fingers and toes are the first to get cold because your body senses heat loss and consolidates to the core: protect the heart and brain. When this happens, move these extremities around, or use commercially available warmers. Our ancestors didn't always have the luxury of a warm house and stocked pantry, but you can afford to burn more calories than you consume. If you are standing in snow, can you stand where the heat drain is less? Clear snow to stand on wood or a dry forest floor.

Mittens are better than gloves, but light gloves inside capacious mittens are even better. Insulated boots like Sorrels (fat boots that the ski operators wear) are best.
Wind chill factor is real; this accounts for the fact that wind has additional cooling effect, so cover your skin. This is one reason the gloves and mittens combo is so effective. If you have to expose your bare hands to the cold to get into the food or into a pack, they will get stinging cold quickly. Cover it up.

It's true that heat loss happens out of the head most of all. Always wear a good hat.

Winter picnic group

For the rest of your clothes, think layers. Layers work because they help trap the heat in air space between your body and the cold. Close to the body I like a tight fitting, long sleeve Underarmor workout shirt and long underwear. The next layer should be a tight weave wool or synthetic fabric to hold the warmth close: a good wool shirt, and soft cuddly pajama bottoms for the legs because we'll cover them with windproof baggy ski pants. Another layer on top such as a down jacket or comfortable wool sweater that opens at the neck to regulate heat are good. The final layer should be highly wind resistant. Keep that heat in the house!

Food can help: if your venture outdoors includes a picnic, soup or hot cider can add heat to your insides, warming those fingers and toes in minutes.

Alcohol does NOT help. It's true that a slug of booze may make you feel warmer, but what's happening is your capillaries dilate from alcohol, sending more blood to your skin. This makes you feel warmer, but has a tremendous cooling effect on your core temperature. Alcohol risks hypothermia, and if you become impaired, you may not recognize the difference between emerging hypothermia and an alcohol buzz-on. A little schnapps or hot wine is a tasty treat when recreating outside, but beware how far you take this. Alcohol can be deadly in the cold.

Shivering is the first sign your body gives to lower than optimal core temperature. If you can, get inside, get warm, and drink hot water or soup.

The animals outside deal with the cold all winter long, and it makes them resilient. Spending a little time in minor discomfort can be invigorating. Spending time outside without discomfort is even better.




Volunteer hurricane relief work after Hurricane Harvey

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Wed, Sep 27, 2017 @ 04:42 PM

Volunteering to help others for disaster relief is as life fulfilling as anything else we can do.  Here are a few personal thoughts about helping out with hurricane relief efforts in Houston after Harvey.

How I came to Houston was a combination of an unexpected opening in my schedule and a memorable experience years ago in Louisiana after Katrina.  My wife was away on a trip with her sisters, and everyone knew that there was extensive pain and devastation in Houston.  Timing, opportunity, and need turned a whim into a fulfilling life experience. 

Volunteering after a catastrophe is easy. While there are travel expenses – the flight, and I like to have a car - the logistics of organizing and mobilizing volunteers is often well handled by local churches. Churches are dialed in to the local needs at a more personal level than larger organizations. The impact may not be as broad, but goes deeper to people often unable to navigate government or large non-profit services, which are more organizationally rigid. 

Shondra home.png

I discovered Parkway Fellowship through an easy online search and arrived on Wednesday afternoon. The place emanated energy, had more racial and ethnic diversity than I expected in Texas, and the staff was well organized.  Churches draw a higher percentage of overall residents in the South than in New England, and this seems to contribute to heterogeneity in programs and membership, as well as skills contribution.  By 8PM I had met the team (also from out of town) that I'd spend most of my time with, and a place to sleep.  

Houston trash.jpg

Houston Sprawl

Houston has an urban infrastructure problem.  The city has been one of the country's fastest growing for several years (now third or fourth largest in the country), and while freedom from zoning regulation contributed to that growth, the lack of urban planning is reflected in – among other things - bad rainwater runoff management that exacerbated Harvey's effect, into vast neighborhoods across the socio-economic spectrum. 

The human element
This failure contributed to some of the human tragedy we see today in Houston. I met a fellow who lives in a "500-year' flood plain, meaning FEMA believes the chance of a flood is 1 in 500 years. Federal mortgage requirements require insurance on homes in the "100-year" floodplain, but not in the 500-year plain. This guy has spent the last three years making his home his palace.  After a few days of torrential rains, reservoirs were opened to save downtown: but the flow spread into thousands of homes (I heard the number 100,000, but can't confirm) within the 500-year plain. This guy's home stood in five feet of water by the end of the rains.  Neither he nor thousands of others thought flood insurance was needed.  How can you plan for that?

Harvey is the third 500-year storm in Houston in the past 50 years.   

Harvey relief.jpg

The work
The work after a major flood involves removing everything that got wet: if there was a foot of water in the house, all flooring, three feet of drywall and insulation have to go... Not to mention dishwashers, AC compressors and other mechanicals, and of course, most of the furniture. For remaining studs and exterior walls an anti-mold agent needs to be applied.  This is labor intensive, dirty, work that needs 

to be done before the skilled contractors arrive.  While many people did their own work, others cannot physically do themselves, nor afford to hire someone. This is whom we helped.

The cleanup by neighborhoods
Houston's sidewalks are being cleared by specialty, large volume, refuse haulers hired by the counties. The  word on the street is that the county will make three runs down every affected street (in the worst neighborhoods), picking up what's on the sidewalk each time. After each pickup, the remaining refuse pile has to be moved back out onto the sidewalk. Since some refuse covers entire lawns, people may need to hire their own roll-off dumpsters at their own expense if three trips isn't enough.  (A roll-off costs about $2,500 these days)

harvey waste.jpg

The Future for Houston
There is talk in the neighborhoods and at city hall about how the infrastructure needs to be better designed to move water. Sitting on the eastern edge of the warm Gulf of Mexico, future storms with this much water aren't expected to take another 500 years to appear again.  This is a clear need: watch how Houston addresses it.  

A few final thoughts about Texas.  

I heard from several people, "Texas is more than a state; Texas is a State of Mind."  Texans don't wait; they do.  Everyone I met was incredibly kind, and gracious, and appreciative.  The picture of my clothes is an example.  One day I'm working at the pastor's neighbor's house, cleaning off at a garden hose.  The pastor's wife says, "Let me wash your clothes."  She 

Houston Texas hospitality.jpg

doesn't even have a home to go to; she's staying with friends.  And yet she returns these clean clothes to me (they were really dirty) at the end of the day, plus this cool phone charger than someone had donated to the church.  Plus the awesome note, 'Texas Loves Boston'. 

When the work was done, Texas music plays.  Houston has a lot of work to do, but I'm looking forward to another visit there, next time, to play. 

Tags: volunteer work, hurricane relief,, disaster relief

Trout Fishing: Dumoine 2011

Posted by Gordon Atlantic Insurance on Sat, Jan 28, 2017 @ 09:00 AM

TroutFishing is a sport for young, old, rich or poor.  The pull of a line and an exciting retrieve are the thrills that drive anglers to boats and shores with all the weapons they can afford.  But it’s the time in the boats, getting to the shore, and the stories that are the soul of fishing.  This is the story of fishing in Quebec, economy class.

Quebec is a vast province, but getting to remote regions doesn’t need to cost a fortune.  The Dumoine region is accessed 2 hours north of Ottawa, a day’s drive from Boston, and only 4-5 hours from upstate New York.  Our fishing expedition took us another hour across primitive roads, roughly 30 km from Deep River, Ontario where there are great outfitters and less campy fishing opportunities available.   There are also fly-in opportunities out of Rapides des Joachims on Air Swisha, just across the Ottawa River in Quebec.

The licensure requirements in Quebec have two levels: the province (Quebec license) and the “Zone Ecologique de Control” (the ZEC).   The only real trick is deciding which ZEC to fish; once you do this, you’re limited to that zone.  If you’re in for a week, a one week Quebec license and two three day ZEC licenses is a good way to see more country, though a week in a single ZEC is still more water than you could possibly visit in the course of a week.   A ZEC map available at the outfitters in Deep River is worth the investment; the reverse side lists the known species to each lake.  Ours was mostly a brook trout show, though pike, walleye and lake trout are plentiful, and we caught all these on appropriate water.

Brook Trout cannot compete with many favorite anglers’ favorite catch, bass, nor its co-habitants, pike and walleye (cousin to the perch), as these fish will decimate the small fry trout before they mature.  Thus, once a lake has been infested with these species, trout cannot survive.  This is the basis for important and tight regulations never to introduce live bait (minnows) into trout waters.  If you’re going to fish with minnows, catch them yourself in the water you’re going to fish.   Don’t contribute to the eradication of a great fish.

During Quebec’s separatist movement in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s, Americans and many English speaking Canadians found Quebec less than hospitable, and fishing by outsiders declined.  In addition, the Dumoine region was clear-cut logged, changing the landscape substantially.  Today the forest is mostly new-growth poplar and birch, but old growth white pine, spruce and white cedar remain in a few pockets.

A more welcome regulatory structure makes fishing regions more accessible again to outsiders.  The old logging roads are the upside to the logging operations of the 1970s.  Many lakes, formerly accessible only by extensive wilderness traverse (paddling across water and portaging - - walking around in the woods with a canoe on your head) are today readily accessible by 4-wheel drive vehicles.  Secondary unimproved logging roads, accessible by 3- and 4-wheel ATVs will get you even further in.   As with any wilderness travel, the further you‘re willing to go in, the more wildlife and fewer humans you’ll see.

Accommodations are primitive, if you’re on a budget.  But primitive is a relative term.  Our camp is owned by the Dumoine Rod and Gun Clu and includes a gas fridge. 3-burner stove, bunk beds, and a screened porch looking out across the lake.  We were delighted to find a fine folding card table and folding chairs where we wiled away non-fishing-hours playing cards.  Having spent enough rainy nights in our youth stuck in a tent trying to heat water to make rhaman noodles soft, we were living large.  The little tricks we’ve learned over the years to maximize comfort make staying at Camp Cullen as comfortable as the Ritz.  And the Ritz can’t touch the view …or the sounds of owls and loons in the short solstice night.

Part of the allure of wilderness camping is the richness of life, even in a place with a growing season of about 60 days.  On the final mile in we spotted a large snapping turtle laying eggs in the road sand by a beaver pond.  That evening, as we fished our own Lake Cullen, we were shadowed by a beaver whose lodge was just around the corner from ours.   A black bear sighting, wolf prints in the mud, watching a loon grab the trout one of us had just released (apparently he hadn’t fully recovered) were other wilderness encounters we won’t soon forget.

The bugs of Quebec deserve more than a footnote.  Bug spray isn’t enough, though the Native Americans’ use of bear grease was the best they had.  Full head-nets are a must, and a sleeping canopy net can make the difference between a good night’s sleep and a bad one.

A good, but fairly typical day was our third.   We began with a delicious hot breakfast then paddled our boats to the landing where the truck was parked.   We headed to Lake Benwah, which has only native trout and is closed after a certain number are taken.  We caught and kept three fine native brook trout from this mile long lake.  After Benwah, we explored two other lakes known for large pike, but were skunked.  Back at camp by mid-afternoon, Peter made a fire to fry our fish, and I went for a swim.  About halfway to my island destination two loons came in for a close look at the splashy, noisy swimmer on their lake.  Later, washing down campfire trout on crackers with a cold Canadian beer while waiting for our evening fish, I wrote in my journal.

My hardest decision for the day still vexed me: would I go with a gold Phoebe, or silver Kastmaster against the pike that night?

Here's a video slideshow of my trip, enjoy!


Geoff Gordon

Tags: Dumoine fishing, fishing, trout, trout fishing, dumoine, quebec fishing, fishing blog

The Grand Canyon

Posted by Gordon Atlantic Insurance on Thu, Jan 26, 2017 @ 09:00 AM

The day before our Sedona Trip, my family decided that we should see the Grand Canyon. Now it’s worth mentioning that my family, like the countless before us, fell into the vacational quagmire known as ‘mindless sightseeing.’ Not one of us had any particular interest in the Grand Canyon, but we all felt compelled it see it by the almost tangible feeling of expectation breathing down our necks with its hot, rancid breath. So we went anyway. Ultimately I’m glad we did, but it always bothers me when I see things just to say I’ve seen them.

It’s also worth mentioning that I didn’t bring a camera for unfortunate reasons known in clinical psychology circles as ‘terrible decisions’; all these pictures are courtesy of other photographers. These are not my photos, and I deserve exactly no credit for any of them. I’ve added them so our visually inclined readers can slug through my words without feeling the need to jump off the Canyon rim.

If you end up visiting the Grand Canyon yourself, there are many great things to see (see below). But for me, the most enjoyable part of the visit was the 3 hours spent hiking around the rim. Hiking is particularly enjoyable here because there’s ALWAYS a breathtaking view, no matter where you are (unless you choose to hike with a sleeping mask, which I don’t recommend). It’s also great because the vegetation and rocks provide great shady places to stop and eat or just rest.

Grand Canyon Hike

This is what it looks like when you hike.

Even so, the shade is really unnecessary because of the dry air, which has so little humidity that it feels like 80 degrees when the temperature is supposedly near 100. Hiking in the crisp air and wind made for one of the most comfortable hikes I’ve been on (temperature-wise).  Note that the same will NOT be true for your car. The hot Arizona sun will heat the interior of your car to blistering temperatures in only a few hours. Be sure to crack a window, or you might burn yourself on your seat belt when you return like a witless simpleton (see: me).

Grand Canyon Hike

If you’re not faint of heart, you’ll also enjoy visiting the famous (or infamous, depending on your personal comfort level with heights) ‘Grand Canyon Skywalk.’ This is a glass-bottomed U-shaped structure that reaches out over the canyon unsupported from below. While the views are amazing, you’ll probably find out whether you have more faith in human engineering or gravity.

Grand Canyon Skywalk

There are also lots of off-site things to see if you get the opportunity.

One of the coolest places (in my opinion) is called Antelope Canyon. It’s a long drive away from the Canyon, but truly incredible if you have eyes or an interest in irregular geometry (strangely, the ‘chaos of irregularly iterated fractals canyon’ just doesn’t have the same ring). The rock formations in this canyon look both carved and smooth, with edges and warped surfaces. If you visit around noon, you can see the ‘light of God’ at the bottom, like in the picture.

Antelope Cavern

'Light of God' or just really cool optical physics? Both?

If you can make it (it’s a long drive), try visiting the Hoover Dam. I particularly liked how the Hoover Dam is a marvel of human engineering placed smack in the middle of some of nature’s best engineering.  If you couldn’t tell already, I’m a huge fan of contrast and corn dogs (you probably couldn’t tell the second part).

Hoover Dam

The Hoover Dam simultaneously gave me feelings of empowerment and vulnerability. Humans as we know them have only been crawling around for a few thousand years, whereas the Colorado River has been carving the Canyon for millions of years; regardless, we’ve managed to erect a structure to regulate all that natural change in a geological blink of an eye.

On the flip side, when I see the Hoover Dam, I don’t see a dam …well, I do see a dam, but I also see a battle between the concrete it’s made of, gravity, and the billions of gallons of water constantly pressing against it. It’s here today, but gravity isn’t going away any time soon; nature always wins in the end.

Despite its touristy ‘street-rep,’ it’s definitely worth your while to make at least a stop here. It’s the one place on Earth where you can take a picture anywhere under any conditions and have it look awesome. Poor photographers (see: my family) don’t need to worry about lighting or scenery. The Grand Canyon is popular for a reason.

Corbin Foucart

Tags: Arizona, Grand Canyon, Grand Canyon National Park, Antelope Canyon, Colorado River, God, grand canion, grand canon, grand canyon attractions, grand canyon sights, grand canyon sites, Grand Canyon Skywalk, grand caynon, Hoover Dam, hoover dam tours, skywalk west rim, west rim skywalk, United States

Sedona, AZ: Our Hiking Trip

Posted by Gordon Atlantic Insurance on Tue, Jan 24, 2017 @ 09:00 AM

The following account is the tragic tale of how my foot was introduced to Echinocereus fendleri, known to biologists and Jeopardy contestants as the “Fendler Hedgehog Cactus.” But because I am haunted every night by the ghosts of Shakespeare past, I feel obligated to start at the beginning of the story.

My uncle and his family used to live in Sedona, Arizona because, like our family, they tend to accept “familiarity breeds contempt” as a central doctrine and move around frequently. Either that or he’s a repressed linguistic compensating for his semantic yearnings by moving to places that rhyme.

Whatever the case, we decided to travel to Arizona to visit with them and more importantly, to hike. Sedona is one of the agreed-upon most beautiful places in America. It boasts towering mesas, red sand, fresh air, and depending on the season, tourists wearing all the seven major varieties of the “awful polo.”


We spent two days in Sedona after visiting the Grand Canyon (which is another story for another post), so naturally the bar had been set high. However, Sedona did not disappoint; I, unlike WolframAlpha, think that Sedona is cooler than the GC.

Our first day involved some intense road-tripping and poor verb creation. We traveled 3 or 4 hours to Sedona by car. Depending on your personal affinity for driving and how much you like playing “I spy” (ignore the libelous ‘warning’ to avoid playing in cars; the directions were written by ruffians), I would recommend long drives as part of your trip. The Arizona desert is possibly the most gorgeous landscape to drive through. Rock formations smeared with vibrant reds and oranges as well as a variety of plant and animal life will make the drive well worth the while.

Sedona az

We actually got the opportunity to drive part of the way through a thunderstorm, which was also something everyone should be able to see. The winds whip the rain into pseudo-twisters that whip back and forth around you; quite a remarkable sight!

Once we arrived in Sedona, we hiked as much as we could. ‘Hiked’ is a loose term here; there were other people on the trail with backpacks they could drink straight out of and goofy improvised ski poles, glancing at us with disdain as they shuffled past. I suppose they were the ones that were actually hiking; we ‘vigorously walked’ the trails around Sedona. It’s really unfortunate that I was at the stage where I would never take pictures of anything (because I thought that worrying about a camera ruined the experience). The Sedona trails boasted some of the most stunning scenery I’ve ever seen. If you ever have the opportunity to walk these trails, do so. Ski poles or not.

sedona hiking

For the most part, these trails are very safe and well marked; but on the last day, I wandered off the path and stepped right on a cactus (a Fendler Hedgehog Catcus to be precise, see above) wearing only sneakers. I may or may not have said some unspeakable things; words that I didn’t even know I had access to. Which leads me to my most important recommendation: WEAR BOOTS.

fendler cactus, sedona The Culprit. Looks sinister, doesn't it?

Despite this painful turn of events, I watched an Arizona sunset from a Mesa, which is when I once again felt an irrational urge to scrapbook. Oh well, such is life. Next time, I’ll bring a camera. For now, here's a YouTube video posted by someone who had the sense to bring one.


 ...Stupid Cactus.

Corbin Foucart



Tags: Arizona, arizona trips, Grand Canyon, Grand Canyon National Park, Hiking, Jeopardy, Sedona Arizona, sedona az, sedona az tours, sedona hiking, sedona resorts, sedona tours, sedona trips, things to do in Arizona, tours in sedona, Trail, United States

Dumoine Fishing Trip 2016 Andrew G Gordon Ins. Norwell MA

Posted by Geoffrey Gordon on Tue, Jul 05, 2016 @ 04:53 PM

dumoine geoff gordon andrew g gordon ins ma



We got gas in New Hampshire, ending up at ZEC Dumoine at 6:30.  The licensing station closes at 7 and we still had two stations to go, so we were cutting it close.   The 7-day Quebec fishing license is about $70 CDN and is available at Lance’s at the entrance of Swisha, which is open 8-8 almost every day. 

dumoine fishing gordon insurance



Right when we got to camp on Tuesday, we went out fishing.  Kurt filleted his 22” catch and we had it after dinner, which was on the stove when we pulled in, about 10. When we woke up on Wednesday, we did not tarry over coffee or breakfast, as we had reserved a say at Benway, a 300 acre lake.  After the morning activities on Wednesday,   Peter turned our camp lunch fixins into a delectable tuna salad on toasted flatbread and cheese.  After a short fishing excursion early on Thursday morning, I came back to camp for a great breakfast of hash and eggs.  For lunch, Peter made grilled cheese and ham with Oscar's smoked mustard.  Dinner was Norwell sourced: I brought Canadian goose breasts and Kurt brought venison rump roast.  Peter added twice baked potatoes over the newly repaired fire ring, added a little pinot grigio and we were good. For dinner on Friday, Kurt was on his venison, which included rump cuts and the back straps, while Peter prepared the brookies.  Jeff and I got the fire ready while Kurt and Peter prepped the Vidalia onions and asparagus for grilling, and a mushroom sauce and mushrooms.  It was outstanding.  Peter brought out some killer carrot cake.  Saturday’s dinner and our final meal was a week-in-review: moose and venison, trout hash, and some brussel sprouts with garlic and onion.


geoff gordon boat marine insurance dumoine 2016



When we arrived on Tuesday, Peter and Jeff had left us a canoe at the road. They were gone, so we just left our stuff and hit the water.  Kurt caught two walleyes.  His second one was closer to 22", so we kept it.

On Wednesday, we headed out early because we had reserved a day at Benewah, a 300 acre lake with no stocked fish.  I broke the ice with a small speckled trout, and Kurt tagged one soon after. After taking a few more passes along the eastern shore, Kurt and I broke off to explore the little inlet cove.  We caught - didn't boat - some small brookies at another lake above Benewah.  At the bridge crossing the Fil de Grande - a north to south river that drains into the Dumoine - Jeff scored with two pike, the first small, the second respectable, and that seemed to spook the rest.

It was raining on Thursday, so I started the day with a short fishing excursion here on Cullen, heading to Third Chain when the rain broke off slightly.  We were skunked at Third Chain, and returned to camp with plans for fishing elsewhere later in the afternoon.

On Friday we headed out early.  The sun was already up over much of the lake, so Peter and I headed to the eastern shore to fish the shaded shore.  We began in shallow water, and I had a hit on my Wabbler and worm.  Further along the same shore, I caught a maybe 12", which we kept by choice for dinner.  Before we were done, we had caught about a dozen brook trout and kept five, releasing the rest.  Jeff and Kurt were slinging tin, and while they didn't have the same success, were also both rewarded with several fish, losing two on a stringer.  On Lake Robinson, we tried several different lures with no success.  I finally tried a north river Rapala, and hooked quickly into a couple small walleyes.  Below the falls onto the slow water, Kurt tried a top water frog imitation, and Peter a gold Phoebe, but nothing produced pike.

On Saturday, we fished Cullen in the morning for pike.   Jeff and Peter were planning to cast along the left edge, but with the breeze down the lake we decided to paddle a quarter mile up the shore.  Kurt was using a jitterbug from Bill Drummy, a top water splashy twitchy bright thing. He had only a few casts before he caught onto something substantial.  This was by far the broadest and longest fish we caught.  We fished the same cove to the left of the main body of water below the old heron rookery.

dumoine geoff gordon insurance norwell


Tags: Lake Benwah, fishing, trout, trout fishing, dumoine, fishing blog, good food, Lake Robinson

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